Preparing for Mongolia



आज आंखों में काट लो शबेहिज्र
जिंदगानी पड़ी है सो लेना

So if it is about the journey, then anticipation is definitely the best part.

The trip has been a long time in the making and anyone who knows me knows that I am going. What can I say, I am excited. Its the first for me and the first of many I hope. The world is changing and I want to see it before it is our children's world.

It all started at the EG conference. Chris Rainier was the speaker and he was showing these wonderful pictures of people from the world over. Hmmm. And then there was Rachel McKinley from BBC and the Human Planet team with pictures of the tree people in Africa. But mostly it was Liz Scanlon - "Really Madhav, you should go on such a trip"- she instigated. So one thing led to another and I found myself committed to a trip to Mongolia with Timothy Allen, the lead photographer for the Human Planet team - two weeks in July-August. And here we are.

What to take?

That was the preoccupying question. I decided that food would be nixed and clothing would be minimized in favor of the equipment. Mongolian airlines apparently has a scrupulous weight limitation and why take an extra shirt when you can pack a reflector instead? Gurleymon was kind enough to loan me the second camera and much deliberation later, I settled on the stuff below. No Film.

The 300mm did not make it as did not the 40D. The 2x multiplier would have to do if I get lucky and see the Argali or Ibex mountain sheep. Also decided against the Leica and Tri-X, even though I might go to the Ger camps in Ulan Bataar on my way back.

I also decided to invest in the Blackrapid DR-2 double strap so I can carry two cameras on my shoulders without worry. I am sure I will look like such a dork that my daughter will never go anywhere with me again.

From SFO to Beijing, non-stop and then after a long wait on to Ulan Bator. UB is one of the the highest capital in Eurasia and cold in the winter, though at this time I believe quite pleasant. And it is famous for the its sloping runway. Apparently as you land it runs away from you. Here's to a window seat.

OK I'm off. Next - Greetings from UB.

रुकसत ए दिल्ली तेरी महफिल से जाता हूँ मै..,


So after a wonderful 2 plus weeks in Delhi I am off and the line of Poet Majaaz comes to mind.

Each time I visit, I find Delhi incredibly romantic, despite all its everyday problems. Perhaps it is the ability to see past these that I am most grateful for.


Jamma Masjid is one of the places I enjoyed visiting this time (twice). Built by Shahjahan, when he moved his capital to Delhi, the Mosque is primarily an elevated courtyard - built all in red sandstone. When not being used for worship, it serves as a picnic grounds for hundreds of visiting pilgrims - from near and far, I presume. Coteries, sitting on the ground, enjoying Biryani and Kababs were a mouthwatering sight to behold in their own right - but what attracts me to this place most is the kids that run around, friendly and oblivious to the world outside. They come by, asking to be photographed, scampering to tell their parents of what happened, shy and outgoing at the same time.




At the back of the courtyard, is a 20 foot square, outlined in yellow where the food for the pigeons is laid out. In Islam, doves and the pigeon clan in general, are respected and favored because they are believed to have assisted the prophet of Islam, Muhammad in distracting his enemies outside the cave of Thaw'r in the great Hijra. People come and place grain within this yellow square and the pigeons, in turn, leave the picnicking groups alone. Evey once in a while, a loud sound or a group of rambunctious kids send the pigeons flying.





What this picture does not communicate is the rapid fire flapping of the wings as these birds take off. At a mere 5 feet distance from them I could not but help involuntarily cover my head !